Evolution of Banchan and Tableware on the Soban

Culinary Culture Blossoming from Fingertips

Section 5 of 510 min read

1. Utensils and Banchan — Inseparable Companions

In Korean food culture, the development of banchan is closely tied to the evolution of tableware, sujeo (dining utensils), and soban (dining tables). To arrange and consume diverse banchan (soupy jorim, kimchi, dry namul, jangajji) efficiently, a unique system of dining tools was devised. Chung and Choi (2010) prove that changes in late Joseon dining environments co-stimulated the physical evolution of banchan cooking techniques and dining utensils.

2. Sujeo — Evolution of the Spoon and Chopsticks

Koreans are unique in East Asia for actively using both a spoon and chopsticks simultaneously during meals. While neighboring cultures rely on chopsticks, Koreans eat soupy stews, soups, and diverse banchan alternately with rice, making both tools essential. Harmonious usage of the spoon for rice/soup and chopsticks for banchan forms the foundation of banchan culture.

3. Tableware — Standardization of Bansanggi

As the numbers of banchan became standardized in late Joseon, bansanggi (tableware sets) was perfected, subdividing bowls for rice, soup, stews, and small plates (jaengcheop) for namul or jorim. Koreans changed tableware seasonally, using white porcelain or celadon in summer for a cool feel, and brassware (yugi) in winter to retain warmth.

4. Soban — The Art of Carrying Food

The soban is a multipurpose furniture piece serving as an individual dining table and a tray to transport food from kitchen to room. Made with wood carving styles (Haeju, Naju, Tongyeong-ban), it is a masterpiece of Korean woodworking. Its raised rims prevent dishes from sliding, and its low height suits floor-seating.

5. Ondol and Confucianism — Two Pillars Shaping Tableware

5.1 Ondol and Seating Culture

The spread of ondol (underfloor heating) led to a floor-seating lifestyle. Dining tables evolved as low, compact soban. To utilize room space, lightweight, portable soban and nesting tableware that stacked easily were developed.

5.2 Confucianism and Individual Dining

Joseon Confucian ethics produced individual dining (doksang). Rather than eating from a single large table, fathers or guests were served individual rice, soup, and banchan sets on separate soban. This Confucian hospitality led to compact, refined tableware.

6. Utensil Correlation — An Organic Whole

In conclusion, sujeo, bansanggi, soban, ondol, and Confucianism were not isolated elements, but evolved together as an organic network to serve Korean meals hygienically and deliciously, preserving the vitality of banchan culture.

References

  • 정미선·최경란 (2010). 조선후기 식환경 및 식도구의 상호관계에 관한 연구.
  • 윤덕인 (2012). 우리나라 전통음식의 조리법과 조리기기의 변천에 관한 연구 2. 한맛한얼, 6(1).
  • 빙허각 이씨 (1815). 규합총서.
  • 김상보 (2006). 조선시대의 음식문화. 가람기획.
  • 나선화 (2002). 소반. 대원사.